Valve Cover Gasket Replacement on 2003-2007 Honda Accord
This is the procedure for replacing the valve cover gasket on the 4cyl model of the 2003-2007 Honda Accord. I needed to take on this repair because of the multiple leaks I was having from valve cover nut seals and along the rear of the valve cover itself.
NB: When you have multiple leaks from different parts of the engine, do rule out a clogged PCV valve! A clogged PCV valve will raise the pressure in the crankcase and predispose to multiple leaks. I had replaced my PCV valve earlier in this post:
Materials: Needle-nose pliers, 10mm wrench, torque wrench, flat screw driver, electronic cleaner (optional), high temperature silicone gasket maker (very important! I got the OEM stuff, heard its very good), and new valve cover gasket (I’m using the FEL-PRO brand because its good and came with free valve cover nut and spark plug tube seals).
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the 2 10mm intake manifold cover (black plastic with i-VTEC inscription) nuts.
3. Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the ignition coils and plastic covering (this the other black plastic above the intake cover plastic).
4. This step is optional, but advised. You will notice the grime revealed when the intake covers were removed. Clean this down with electronic parts cleaner (electronic parts cleaner is recommended because it does not degrade plastic or rubber and dries out fast). This would reduce the chances of getting dirt into the crankcase when the valve cover is opened.
5. Remove the ignition coils. Technique for this is to pry up the ignition coil, detach the electrical connector, then complete removal of the part. Note the coils for the specific cylinders! (Never mind the latex gloves I was wearing here, soon found out it degrades with prolonged contact with oil!)
6. Remove the power steering line mounting bolt.
7. Remove the engine oil dipstick.
8. Remove the 6 10mm valve cover nuts.
9. Pry off the valve cover nut seals using the tip of a flat-head screw driver. Do this for all 6.
10. Remove the 2 mounting bolts for the fuel lines…
11. Remove the PCV breather hose. Use the pliers remove the clamp then, break the seal of the hose on the breather tube.
12. With all connectors, bolts etc off, use a rubber mallet to tap the front-left and rear-right sides of the valve cover to break the seal (if you don’t have a rubber mallet, place a block of flat wood or multiple folds of shop rags against the valve cover and tap gently with a usual mallet). Do this repeatedly and be patient. No need to be an Arnold Schwarzenegger on this, if not you’ll crack your valve cover!
13. Move the railing bearing the ignition coil connectors to the rear of the valve cover.
Last image of engine with valve cover about to come off
14. Remove valve cover and set aside.
15. Remove the old valve cover gasket and discard. Clean the groove with a rag sprayed with thinners or carb cleaner. This will remove any debris and clean off oil. Do this same cleaning for the mating surface on the cylinder head. Take time to do this as it will help ensure a close seal.
16. Insert the new valve cover gasket into its groove on the valve cover…
If your spark plug tube seals are leaky, replace. Mine were not.
17. Apply the high temp sealant to the 2 junctions of the timing chain cover with the cylinder head on the mating surface. Do same for the right end at the beginning of each arch (number 5 rocker shaft mating area)
18. After a minute of applying the above sealant, refit the valve cover and the new valve cover nut seals. Torque valve cover nuts to 12Nm in the order indicated on the image below. Following the correct order will prevent leaks and do this incrementally per nut.
19. Follow reverse steps. Torque intake manifold cover bolts to 12Nm
20. After completing this procedure, you should not start the engine for the next 3 hours. This is to allow the sealant applied to cure properly.
Hope you found this useful!